To this historical outpost far from the mainland people are happy to return to ramble over the barren and smooth granite rock slabs, watch the never-ending flight of the seagulls, and let the eye rest on the unbroken ocean horizon.
Huvudskär in the southern archipelago of Stockholm is actually an island group with nearly 200 islands, rocks and skerries. From a small distance away, these are hardly visible above the water surface. The old lighthouse appears to be just a mirage on the horizon.
As you approach, however, the archipelago assumes clearer contours, with the lighthouse rising over red cabins, untamed vegetation and protected lagoons where folk engaged in boat-based leisure activities find a popular natural anchorage.
People have lived on Huvudskär for more than 700 years. They have been fishermen, hunters, customs officials and sea pilots. There are no longer any permanent residents, but the customs house, pilot station and bakery are all still here. Scheduled boat traffic runs in the summer to Huvudskär from Dalarö. And accommodation is available in the hostel or one of the two apartments in the customs house.